Automotive Business

How Do I Install a Wheel-Skins Leather Steering Wheel Cover?

First, let’s review what a wheelskin is. A wheelskin is a cover for a steering wheel that either protects a new wheel, covers blemishes on an older or damaged wheel, or completely changes the look of a wheel. Wheelskins leather steering wheel covers are made from the supple top layers of domestic hides. By processing only the outermost hide layer, Wheelskins produces the most pliable and durable steering wheel covers available. Wheelskins products have been handmade in the USA since 1977. Remember that after your Wheelskins wheel cover has been installed, you only need to gently wash your cover with mild hand soap and clear water. Leather dressing products are not recommended and should never be used.

Let’s move on to the actual installation. When your Wheelskins cover order is shipped, it will include well illustrated installation directions. You will also receive a quality lacing thong and an appropriate needle. You will notice that your cover will have Wheelskins’ exclusive patented lacing hole reinforcement design. This ensures a tight fit on your steering wheel and allows you to tightly lace the cover on your wheel without tearing the leather. For most of you this will be your first experience installing a leather steering wheel cover. Begin slowly and don’t be concerned if you need to take it apart and begin over. First, slide the Wheelskins cover over your steering wheel, keeping the reinforcement holes on the inner side of your wheel ring. Once you have the cover aligned, begin lacing the cover on at the 6 o’clock position on the wheel. The first stitch is made from the inside, going out. The most common error at this point is not lacing the cover consistently tight. You should keep checking for consistency every few inches. If you are not happy with how you are doing the lacing, and it looks uneven, you can unlace it and start over. Don’t be afraid to unlace it and do it over as the reinforced holes will keep the cover from tearing. You can do this as often as you like until you get your technique perfected. It is a good idea to sit back and take a look at your overall work when you are at the 12 o’clock position. By this time you should have mastered your lacing technique. If it looks inconsistent, take it apart and start over.

Pay close attention to the amount you tighten the leather. The edges of the leather should either almost touch, or actually touch, if possible. When you come to the spoke, continue your normal lacing pattern as close to the spoke as you can. Then, over the spoke do a dummy stitch, which is just a stitch through the top layer of the Wheelskins leather. Begin the full stitch on the other side of the spoke as soon as you are able. Make sure that all the holes around the spokes match before and after each spoke. Always keep checking that your holes are lined up correctly and match up. Continue this procedure all the way around the wheel and you should finish your lacing back at the point where you began. You should have no left over holes. Remember, you will need to make sure that you are consistently matching holes around the wheel, especially at the spoke positions. You should come out perfectly at the end with the correct matchup of holes. Then the lacing can be tied off and tucked away

Congratulations, you have installed your first Wheelskins leather steering wheel cover!

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Wheel chocks are essential in the trucking business. You simply can’t do without high-quality wheel chocks if you want to ensure safety. One of the choices you have when it comes to wheel chocks is aluminum wheel chocks. Aluminum wheel chocks are a great option for many reasons. Read on to find out if this is the kind of wheel chock you should purchase.

One of the reasons to purchase aluminum wheel chocks is the road conditions. Many aluminum wheel chocks are specially made to grip the road in less than perfect conditions. If you need to hold a truck in place in mud, sand, or ice, aluminum and steel chocks are the best choice. These chocks often come with steel teeth built right in to grip the ground tightly. The ground you drive on determines a lot when it comes to wheel chocks.

Another reason to choose aluminum wheel chocks is for the extra features. Aluminum chocks often have handles and grips, making them a lot easier to use. Another feature of some aluminum wheel chocks is the slope chock. These chocks are made for super heavy requirements because the tire rests on the slope rather than against it. And heavy bottom cleats on these slope chocks ensure you’ll have a tight gripping on any surface.

If you are looking for a lightweight chock, aluminum wheel chocks are for you. Aluminum is a very strong metal, but it isn’t heavy like some other materials. Lightweight aluminum chocks are ideal for anyone without maximum body strength. A set of lightweight aluminum chocks with handles and specially designed grips means you won’t ever have trouble placing your wheel chocks again.

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Wheel Center Caps – Enhance the Look of Your Wheel

There are many car owners in this world who always try to make their car look unique and top notch. Giving a look like this to a car is not a difficult task and it can done easily just by fitting some supplementary components like auto accessories. These auto accessories don’t look like as they can enhance the look to such an extent but it is true. These things look very small but they play an important role in enhancing the look of a vehicle. These auto accessories are made from high quality materials and have to be imported from different parts of the world. There are many options while selecting auto accessories such as exterior and interior accessories, mechanical parts and various other body accessories. Wheel center cap is also similar thing which enhances the look of a wheel.

There are many exterior accessories also for enhancing the overall look of a car such as spoilers, styling body kits, sporty mirrors, window visors, car hood shields, sunroof, extra wide wiper blades, window graphics, hood scoops, wheel center caps and alloy wheels. Apart from these, there are many more parts available in the market. These parts play an important role in improving the overall appeal of the car. But it will be more beneficial if all these things will be bought from some online dealer. We can see that day by day the demand for these high quality car accessories is increasing. The various manufacturers and producers of these high quality car accessories are working hard for keeping up this rising demand and every day a new type of accessory is launched. If anyone surfs internet regularly then he or she will always notice the latest parts which comes everyday in the market.

Anyone will have wide options while choosing the various car parts and accessories in the market and they can choose according to their choice and taste. These parts and accessories are very inexpensive, so no one is going to have any type of problem also while buying them. These imported accessories are made up of high quality materials and in spite of that also it is affordable. These accessories and parts are worth to buy because their life’s are long lasting which gives the real value of your money. The main topic of discussion is wheel center caps and also how to find the best deal when someone imports car rims.

There are wide varieties of wheel center caps available in the market which includes chrome caps, American caps, truck caps and custom caps. Apart from these, there are many more types also. But one should choose these caps according to their budget and the look of the vehicle also. The wheel caps should not be fitted too tight because by doing this the wheel cap can break also. Wheel caps are used for enhancing the look of wheels because it adds beauty to the wheels. But the important thing is that it should match with the wheels.

Other than wheel center caps one can also find great varieties of wheels also. Among all, the most popular wheels available are 5 spoke alloy wheels, wire wheels and the chrome spinning wheels. One can choose these different types of wheels according to their taste and look of the car. It is very much important for the wheels to match with the design of the cars because then only it can enhance its look and style. Some people also think that the wheels which are factory fitted from the beginning are best. But this is not true because those wheels put unnecessary weight to the car which reduces the overall performance of the car.

Review

There seems to be a Transit derivative to suit any job. Customers can choose between a range of roof heights and wheelbases for the panel van versions, while there are also chassis cabs, box vans, drop sides and tippers. Vans are available in front-wheel drive up to 3.5 tones gross vehicle weight (GVW), and in rear-wheel drive from 3.3 tons upwards. The front-wheel drive versions offer a lower load sill at the rear, while rear-wheel drive versions can provide better traction if carrying particularly heavy loads. By the time the majority of the range was launched in mid-2001 the Transit could boast a larger choice of roof heights, body lengths, weights and transmissions than any other panel van. Load volume ranges from 6.6 cubic meters on short-wheelbase low-roof models to 11.3 cubic meters on a long-wheelbase high-roof model. The Jumbo long-wheelbase model has a load volume of 14.3 cubic meters.

Safety and Security

Ford was a very early adopter of certain safety features fitted as standard with the Transit. At one time the Transit was the only van in its class to offer a driver’s airbag as standard across the range – important safety features when you consider how many Transits are in use pounding our motorways and also one of the only offering a van leasing option. Van lease hire, makes it easier for you and minimizes your primary costs. A passenger airbag and ABS were options so check if these are fitted when buying used.

Interior Design and Special Features

Inside the cabin, the Transit Connect offers a carlike driving position. The overall look is utilitarian, though patterned upholstery fabric adds a nice touch. Climate and stereo controls are simple and straightforward. The in-dash computer (which includes a wireless keyboard) is bound to come in handy for folks who spend all day in the field, but it does compromise the usability of some normal car functions such as the stereo.When it comes to cargo capacity, the Transit Connect Van bought through van leasing, offers a healthy 135 cubic feet, which is about 100 cubic feet less than Ford’s larger Econoline vans. However, the space is made more usable by a much lower step-in height, a flat load floor that measures 6 feet long and 4 feet wide, and a ceiling height of just less than 5 feet. Maximum payload is a modest 1,600 pounds.For ferrying people, the Wagon’s rear seats offer a firm seat bottom and reasonable elbow room. You’re essentially sitting on a bench screwed into the cargo hold, however, and when you consider the lack of amenities, the Transit Connect is certainly better suited to work crews than families. And you can get all of these for cheap, via van contract hire.

Costs

The Transit Connect is a little costlier to buy than rival vans from Vauxhall, Renault, Citroen, Peugeot and Fiat, largely because of the sheer numbers around. But there always are other options like van lease hire you can use. The diesels are cheap to run, and servicing is every 15,000 miles. Insurance groups range from 10 to 13.Van contract hire includes insurance as well.

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If you are in the market for a potter’s wheel but don’t quite know where to start, there are a few basic things to consider before making a decision. You don’t just want to run out and buy any old wheel without putting some thought into it. This is especially true if you plan to throw lots of clay on it.

The first place to start is with the size of the wheel head. If you plan on only making pots that are smaller in scale, the size probably doesn’t matter too much to you. If you plan to make larger pots, a fourteen inch wheel head is the most desired. The next step is to consider the size of the motor. To avoid constantly ordering wheel replacement parts you will need to make sure that you get a motor that is strong enough to handle however much clay you like to use. Most amateurs don’t need that strong of a motor since they don’t use that much clay on the wheel. For those who are really advanced, you will probably want to get a wheel that can center at least fifty pounds of clay. Since it take many years to become this advanced you could buy the smaller motor and be just fine.

Something that most people might not consider is that if you are left handed, you will want to get a wheel that spins in the opposite direction than most people at potter programs prefer. This point might be moot since you might already have gotten used to working with the wheel made for right handed people. If you do want a wheel that works in the opposite direction make sure to note it when ordering your particular model.

Many potters’ wheels have a work space attached. This allows you a platform upon which you can place your pottery glazes, tools, water bucket and more. You will need to have somewhere that you can work aside from your wheel head, so ordering a wheel that has it in one handy package can be quite convenient. If you plan to make your very own personalized workspace then you can simply ignore this added feature. Another feature that can either be included or sold separately is a splash pan. This pan helps to keep all the clay and water from splashing everywhere. If a wheel doesn’t have this feature it isn’t a deal breaker, you can buy a splash pan anywhere.

You are cruising around town and your car is running fine. You jump on a highway and speed up to the flow of traffic. Suddenly, the steering wheel gets a vibration and starts to shake a bit. Why is this?

Your car is an amazing vehicle. Talk to an enthusiast, mechanic or sales person and they can spend hours telling you about all the intricate technology and gadgets incorporated into the vehicle. This is true for even the cheapest cars available these days. All of the technological advances, however, can’t hide one key thing – the most important area of the car is where the tires meet the road.

Depending upon your vehicle and tires, the total area contacting the road may be as little 4 by 4 by 1 inch if you count all four tires. That small contact area will support a car weighing a thousand pounds or more. The key to getting a smooth ride is to making sure the car balances correctly on those four contact areas.

When the balance goes out of whack, the ride becomes rough. When it is the front tires that have a problem, your steering wheel will vibrate and shimmy. There are two common causes of this. Either the tire is out of balance or you’ve bent a rim. Let’s take a closer look.

Your tire is made of rubber. How’s that for an obvious statement? Regardless, it means the tire is not perfectly round or will go out of round slightly for a host of reasons. The issues can be as simple as low air pressure to a shape change from whacking a pot hole/curb/small tree. When this occurs, the balance of the tire goes bad and it will wobble slightly at higher speeds. You will feel this wobble in the steering wheel as a shaking. To correct it, get the tire balanced at a local tire store.

The second cause of steering wheel shakes at high speed is the bent rim. This is much more common than most people would expect. How do you bend rims? It is pretty easy. You could hit a pot hole. You could hit a sudden upwards elevation change on a street that is being worked on. Hit it fast enough and you can bend a rim going over steel plates…railroad tracks…the list is nearly endless.

The bad news is there is no quick and easy fix for a bent rim. Well, actually there is – buy a new rim. The problem is a new rim costs good money, particularly if the dealer has an exclusive deal on the rims. You could try getting the rim re-finished, but it rarely works and can actually weaken the rim in some cases. In short, it is best to just pony up and pay for a new rim if the shaking bothers you enough.

If your steering wheel shakes at high speeds, the good news is your car is not falling apart. It might be as cheap and simple a fix as getting a wheel rebalanced. On the other hand, you might have to pony up for a new rim, but that’s a lot less costly than fixing a steering system or suspension.

For many RV’ers, this question is a burning issue. For others, it isn’t even on the horizon. It all depends on what kind of RV you’re in and what you’d like to move into.

For example, I’ve been towing travel trailers for several years. What is my next RV going to be? I’m planning to get a fifth-wheel toy hauler. Why? I want the toy hauler for the flexibility in the ways I can use it. I want the fifth-wheel version because of the floor plans which are not available in the bumper pulls. But, that’s just me. This article is about what you want.

By the way, the descriptive terms you’ll hear can be confusing. A fifth-wheel is a fifth-wheel. That’s what people call it. On the other hand, there isn’t one standardized term for the others. You’ll hear people refer to them as, “travel trailers,” “bumper pulls,” “tow-types” or a few other terms. For the sake of this article, I’ll use the term, “bumper pull” because it best describes the hitch location.

Now that we understand the terms, let’s look at the basic differences between the two. The most obvious difference is where the trailer is hooked up to the tow vehicle. The hitch for the bumper pull is, of course, located at or near the rear bumper of the tow vehicle. The fifth-wheel hitch is located in the truck bed over the rear axle.

The first thing that becomes apparent is that you won’t be using a car to tow a fifth-wheel trailer. The location of that hitch requires a truck. The bumper pull trailer can be towed by either a car or a truck.

There’s another factor about the fifth-wheel trailer that requires that a truck be used as a tow vehicle. The design of the fifth-wheel frame is such that it tends to be heavier than that required for a bumper pull trailer. That additional weight needs the strength only a truck can provide.

So, why do people choose one over the other? One reason is the size of the unit. The longer a trailer is, the more likely it is to be designed as a fifth-wheel. The smaller it is, the more likely it is to be a bumper pull design.

The main issue here is the stability of the trailer when it’s being towed. The pivot point (the hitch) of a bumper pull trailer is a few feet behind the axle of the tow vehicle. This can cause the trailer to exert leverage on the truck. The longer units need a good anti-sway hitch to keep the truck and trailer under control if you’re hit with side winds.

The pivot point for the fifth-wheel hitch is over the axle of the truck. There’s no way the trailer can exert leverage on the truck if a gust of wind hits it. That is the main reason why the longer trailers tend to be fifth-wheel units.

Another factor in the choice is the cost. The fifth-wheel units tend to be more expensive than a bumper pull trailer of the same size. That’s why most of the smaller, less-expensive units are bumper pull’s. They’re lighter and less expensive to produce.

There’s a huge difference in the amount of living space you get for every foot of space the trailer takes up on the road or in the camp ground. A bumper pull trailer that is 30 feet long will give you about 25-26 feet of living space. The rest of the length is the tongue sticking out in front of the trailer. As for overall length of the truck and trailer, that whole 30 feet is added to the length of the truck.

A fifth-wheel uses the length more efficiently. A 30-foot fifth-wheel will, in most cases, give you about 30 feet of living space. Because the hitch is over the rear axle of the truck, the amount of trailer hanging out behind the truck will be more like 24-25 feet. The combined length of the truck and trailer will be 8-10 feet shorter for the same amount of living space.

Most of the fifth-wheel trailers require at least a 3/4-ton truck as a tow vehicle. Most of the bumper pull’s can be handled safely by a 1/2-ton truck. The main reason for that is the amount of weight placed on the hitch.

Most of the bumper pull trailers are designed to put about 10% of the total weight on the hitch ball. Putting that much weight on a hitch 3-4 feet behind the axle works as a lever to lift the front of the truck. A good weight equalization hitch becomes extremely important as the size of the trailer moves into the medium or large sizes.

The fifth-wheel trailer is designed to put about 15% of the total weight onto the hitch pin which is over the truck axle. That amount of weight, by itself, requires a heavier-duty truck.

So, where does that leave you? If you already have a 3/4-ton truck or larger, your choices are pretty wide open. It comes down to which floor plan and price range work best for you.

If, on the other hand, you have a car or a small pickup truck, you’re pretty much limited to a smaller bumper pull trailer. Most of the cars and small pickups are limited to trailers weighing 3,500 pounds or less. Trailers that light aren’t going to offer a lot in the way of creature comforts. At the same time, they do offer an inexpensive entry point into the wonderful world of RV travel.

It all comes down to where you are and where you want to be in the grand scheme of things. The tow vehicle will dictate the size and style of trailer you are able to safely pull. If you want to pull something bigger, you’ll need to upgrade your tow vehicle.

The other main factor is, of course, your budget. It’s true that you can save a lot of money on your vacation travel if you travel light with a tent or, even, a pop-up tent trailer. Because hotel and restaurant costs can add up pretty fast, camping can be a real bargain.

However, there comes a point where you’re no longer camping to save money. You’re camping because you really enjoy the RV lifestyle. Let’s face it, a new 3/4-ton truck with a matching fifth-wheel trailer can easily approach $80,000 – $100,000! You can’t camp enough to save that much money!

So, as for the question of fifth-wheel vs. bumper pull, the bottom line is this: how much are you willing to spend? Most of the bumper pull units are at the low end to the mid-point of the scale. Most of the fifth-wheel units will start from the mid-point and range up through the high end of that same scale.

Where are you and where do you want to be?